The Cultivation of The Native Grape, and Manufacture of American Wines — Themes and Context

Variety Assessments Rooted in Local Conditions

Husmann's evaluations of grape varieties are consistently tied to specific growing conditions. He describes the Concord as producing 'immense crops' and being profitable for market, yet he notes that its wine, while fair, is 'not of very high character.' The Delaware, though praised by some as the best American grape, is deemed unsuitable for general cultivation because it succeeds only in select locations, such as 'the bluffs on the north side of the Missouri river.' Husmann's judgments are often comparative: he ranks the Clinton's wine below Norton's Virginia and even the Concord, and he cautions that the Clinton has been 'over praised as a wine grape.' These assessments reflect a grower's perspective, weighing productivity, ease of cultivation, and wine quality against local conditions.

Propagation Methods and Practical Techniques

The manual provides step-by-step instructions for propagating vines from seed, single eyes, cuttings, layering, and grafting. Husmann describes constructing a 'propagating house' for starting vines from single eyes, a method that requires careful control of moisture and temperature. For open-air cuttings, he advises on timing and soil preparation. The section on grafting includes techniques for improving vine vigor or changing varieties. These instructions are detailed but assume the reader has some prior knowledge of horticulture. Husmann also addresses vineyard management tasks such as pruning, manuring, thinning fruit, and renewing old vines. His advice on girdling to hasten maturity and on protecting vines from frost and birds shows a concern for practical problem-solving.

Wine Making and Regional Adaptation

Husmann's discussion of winemaking is closely linked to his variety recommendations. He describes the wine from Norton's Virginia as dark red with good body, while the Delaware yields 'an excellent white wine, equal to, if not superior, to the best Rhenish wines.' He notes that the Clinton makes a wine 'much resembling claret' but not equal to Norton's Virginia. The author's evaluations are based on his own trials: he states, 'I have made wine from it,' referring to the Concord. The manual also addresses the challenges of adapting European methods to American grapes, emphasizing the need to select varieties suited to local soils and climates. Husmann's dedication 'to the grape growers of our country, one and indivisible' underscores his aim to foster a self-sufficient American wine industry.

Readers should approach this manual as a period document that captures the state of American viticulture in the mid-19th century. Husmann's firsthand observations and candid assessments offer valuable insights into the challenges faced by early grape growers. The text is best used as a reference for historical practices and variety characteristics, rather than as a modern guide. Those interested in the development of American wine will find here a detailed record of the varieties and techniques that shaped the industry in the Midwest.

I’ve spent many evenings with Husmann’s gentle faith in the stubborn vine. There’s a fellow patience in The Tomato — Edition Insights, that quiet record of another fruit learning to trust a new soil. Both books share a simple, unsentimental love for what grows, needing no grand words—only the steady turning of pages, and seasons.